It was a family reunion and travel assignments that brought me and hubby Lew to San Francisco. But it was the magical, Parisian feel to this bejeweled city that kept us captive for three extra days this July. Having lived in Paris for a month a few years ago, our standards have become, uh, a little higher than before. We were not disappointed.
This soulful, urban oasis surrounded by water and postcard views, offers not only delectable international cuisine, friendly ethnic neighborhoods, world-class museums and cathedrals reminiscent of Montmartre, it also has superb lodging, spas and fitness activities to please the most discerning Parisian.
Frankly, if you plan on walking to some of the more famous attractions (Lombard Street, with its steep roadway, Fisherman’s Wharf, Chinatown, Nob Hill, North Beach, Haight-Ashbury) you won’t need a fitness itinerary. Why? Because in San Francisco, you’re either trekking steeply uphill or down—burning calories in order to thoroughly enjoy your next meal!
So what’s so Parisian about this place? For one, it’s the outstanding selection of every known cuisine. Our favorite just happens to be French-inspired. Or perhaps it’s the personal fervor with which locals steer visitors to their favorite restaurant. It’s also the wide-spread appreciation of small pleasures: a loaf of sour-dough bread, fabulous French cheese and chocolate to rival you-know-whose.
But one highlight (and lowlight) of our visit was the timing—during the World Cup Soccer Finals. Stopping in a local bar at Haight-Ashbury, home of the “Free Love” hippie-dippie movement of the 1960s and ‘70s, we caught the final part of the tense rivalry between France and Italy on the playing field.
We cheered the French goalie when he successfully stopped a few extra goals. Then we almost got into an altercation with a few Italian couples saying very rude things about our chosen heroes. Lew stopped me before I became a head-butt casualty.
Unfortunately, soon after settling in to what we assumed would be our adopted country’s victory, we were stunned (who wasn’t?) when an idiotic head-butt by one who shall remain nameless, shocked the world. What an inglorious way to end a career. A head-butt. So, instead of rejoicing and rubbing it into our Italian bar-stoolers, we closed our gaping mouths, chugged our draughts and slithered into the chilled silence of Haight-Ashbury.
I wanted to pick up the Janis Joplin-trail (you know how much she loved this neighborhood, man!) but our hearts weren’t into it. Sadly, we decided to drown (and stuff) our sorrows in perhaps the most unusual Chinese restaurant in the world. Tommy Toy’s touts its menu as being “Haute Cuisine Chinoise," French for Chinese high cuisine, and they’re not kidding.
It may be on the fringes of Chinatown and the Financial District, but Tommy Toy’s may as well be in one of the upscale arrondisements on the Left Bank. Yes, the food is that good. With a perfect blend of French service (including hovering wait-staff to replace your cloth napkin if you need to take a break) and refinement (think Georges V dining), chefs here have combined intimate French dining with savory herbs and spices common to Chinese cooking.
Founded by Tommy Toy, his philosophy is reflected in the menu, surroundings (ancient artifacts and beautiful floral arrangements) and of course, la cuisine. According to Toy, there are only two great cuisines: Chinese and French.
“Even though they are quite different in ingredients and preparation, they share the most important element of fine cooking: total integrity in quality and taste.”
The service is impeccable, common to most elegant French dining: gracious, courteous, personal and knowledgeable without being intrusive. The first course course, including a superb French Seafood Bisque, is encased in a puff pastry, and Minced Squab Imperial is stuffed in a crisp lettuce leaf served in a delicate white china cup. Don’t even get me started by the French-served Peking Duck.
The courses are endless (sound familiar?) with just a hint of cream in some of the more French-inspired dishes. Here you will also discover fresh Foie Gras with sliced fresh pear in sweet pickled ginger sauce. What you won’t find is a cheese course, but by the time dessert rolls around, you’re ready to be rolled out to explore more neighborhoods, or collapse in your hotel.
